Lake Kivu and the Aberdares: A tale of two weekends

With 2 weeks left before I leave Kenya, I'm making the most of my weekends.

Two weeks ago, I took my first trip to another EAC country, Rwanda. We were visiting some friends who had rented a house on Lake Kivu, opposite the Congo (where they drink Um Bongo). Flying into Rwanda you can see where le pays des mille collines gets its name. It looks totally different to Kenya. It also has a totally different feel. The country is much more organised, due mostly to President Kagame's tight control over pretty much every aspect of life. There are certainly benefits to be found from this. For one, there's no corruption. In a recent East African bribery index, Rwanda had to be left out, because the sample of respondents with experience of corruption was too small to be statistically significant. In Kenya we were directly asked for a bribe by a policeman at the airport.

I had time in Kigali to visit the Genocide Memorial Museum (initial verdict - "well that was depressing"), and take a motobike taxi across town; my first time on one, unsure on the exact etiquette of gripping hold of your driver for dear life.

We headed out to Lake Kivu, about 2 hours' drive away, that afternoon. It's stunning. The house was literally on the water, with a little jetty, and views of misty islands and rolling hills in the background.

Although, to be honest, I was more distracted by the entertainment put on for the kids - in particular Disney's Robin Hood (we also covered Aladdin, Fantastic Mr Fox, and Wallace & Gromit - it was a good weekend).

After Rwanda, last weekend it was Kenya's turn. The Aberdares is a national park near Mr. Kenya, nicknamed 'Scotland with lions' on account of its mountainous scenery. It looks totally unlike anything else in Kenya, with lush green hills and valleys. It's also bloody cold, at 3,500 metres high, with temperatures dipping below freezing overnight. Camping seemed like such a good idea at first, with a blazing fire to keep us warm and the beasts away.

It wasn't til 2.30 in the morning, when I realised I was rather desperate for the loo, culminating in a mad dash to the nearest bush, that I began to have my doubts. Strange noises in the distance, coupled with slight altitude sickness and hypothermic toes did not make for a great night's sleep. But it's worth it in the morning, waking up to the sunrise, frost on the ground, and elephants on the crest of a hill in the distance.

Aberdares is not known for its wildlife; the dense vegetation means there can be an animal right next to you but you wouldn't know, as we found out when an elephant dashed in front of my car from the side of the road, and promptly disappeared on the other side before we could even get our cameras out. It does, however, have some spectacular scenery, waterfalls, and inquisitive lunchtime guests.

Also, baby warthogs! Which are pretty much my favourite thing ever.

We took a brief diversion on the way home to stop for lunch at the Trout Tree Farm. I've heard a lot about this place, and it's been on my to-do list for a while. It's basically a tree house situated above interconnected pools filled with trout. You can, if you're so inclined, fish for your own lunch. I was ok with one being picked for me (which does not augur well for next weekend, where I have been warned part of my farewell celebrations will involve a temporarily alive chicken).

Two weeks and counting.